Old and new, in style
Published Date:
03 May 2008
By Jane Percival
THEY reckon word of mouth is the best recommendation.
If that's the case, The Rock at Holywell Green has a lot to live up to.
No one I spoke to had a bad word to say about it.
The 17th century wayside inn has a traditional, comfortable feel. It reopened in January with new owners – Lester and Lee Marshall, the father-and-son team who run the Design House at Dean Clough, Halifax.
They are trying to create a country house atmosphere and a top-flight restaurant.
You have to admit they are doing it with some style. Restaurant 22 offers an innovative menu, ranging from old favourites such as aged fillet of beef to scallops roasted in liquorice.
It also offers 80 wines, plus eight served by the glass.
Food orders are taken at the bar, followed by a magical mystery tour up narrow staircases to the restaurant.
It is very traditional with a laid-back feel. But there was certainly nothing laid back about the service. It was attentive, friendly and professional.
The meal started with a little treat from the chef – smoked salmon wrapped around cream cheese and garnished with a home-marinaded olive and a pea shoot.
Then it was down to business. Mr P started with seared wood pigeon with crisp pancetta, beetroot emulsion and parsnip puree. He thought that while the pigeon was beautifully tender its strong flavour battled with the pancetta.
I opted for the much more delicate sea trout cooked three ways: with radish salad, the oh, so trendy boudin noir, grain mustard and nettle cream.
Then we both went for things we had never tried before – Mr P had pressed belly pork with a ham doughnut nestling under a huge slice of caramelised chicory and spring onion salsa. The belly pork was tender - but it was the ham doughnut he raved about. Superb taste, he reckoned.
There was one thing lacking though. Vegetables. Something to leaven the strong flavours.
Of course there are side dishes available at extra cost, but I am never quite sure whether to order them or not. Every time I do, there is tons of greenery on the plate. Every time I don't, I'm left with a slab of meat or fish and nothing else. It is my pet hate.
Surely it is the chef's job to balance the whole dish to ensure you get the ultimate taste experience? Well that includes vegetables too.
Mr P washed the pork down with a large glass of merlot but, to be honest, it was past its best. I overcame visions of fluffy bunnies and plumped for lasagne of rabbit, sauteed with wild mushrooms, celery and thyme.
It was an odd-looking creation – two circles of green lasagne stuffed full of rabbit and dusted in parmesan.
The meat was beautifully cooked and I have no complaints about value for money, but without any hint of bechamel sauce, I must say it proved hard going.
There was only one answer. Dessert.
Mr P continued his quest for the perfect creme brulee – this time it contained white chocolate and Baileys with a scrummy strawberry compote.
I went for the vanilla and cardamom panacotta with roasted plums and mint. Very different and very nice.
We finished off with coffee, fudge –and raised eyebrows. The coffee arrived in the smallest cafetiere you have ever seen. There was barely enough for half a cup each. Why? What's the point of being stingy with coffee?
Would I go back? Yes but I'd remember to order veg next time.
Ratings
Name: Restaurant 22
Address: The Rock, Broad Carr, Holywell Green
Phone: 01422 379721
Food 3/5
Atmosphere 4/5
Service 5/5
Value 3/5
The full article contains 623 words and appears in n/a newspaper.
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Last Updated:
06 May 2008 8:22 AM
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Source:
n/a
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Location:
Halifax