Review: 1885 The Restaurant
Food is a serious concern at 1885 The Restaurant, but dinner is far from solemn. Diane Crabtree reports.
NATHAN and Matthew Evans won't mind me saying they are big, strapping lads.
But unlike most single lads their age, their size isn't down to drinking. The brothers have an insatiable appetite for good food and when they are not creating ambitious dishes in their restaurant, 1885 The Restaurant at Stainland, they can be found eating at the very best Michelin starred restaurants in the country.
The two live, eat and breathe food with such a ferocious passion that everything, including women, have to take second place. But their "sacrifice" and hard work hasn't gone unnoticed. Their cooking is regarded by many as the best to be found in these parts and 1885, which they have owned for eight years, is usually busy, which is mostly down to word of mouth.
Thirty-three-year-old Nathan and 30-year-old Matthew, attended Brooksbank School in Elland and ate out with their parents from an early age. They cut their culinary teeth at prestigious restaurants in London and Yorkshire before joining forces, and say while they get on most of the time, there are sometimes fireworks in the kitchen and the staff disappear and leave them to it.
They put this down to the fact they are both perfectionists, and their cooking is buzzing with bold ideas and, subtly executed, British cuisine mixed with a dollop of French. They are proud of the fact that they never have the same dish on their a-la-carte menu more than once, making their recipes not just original but exciting too.
Nothing is left to chance at 1885 from the cheerful service when you walk through the door, to the fabulous presentation. Care is given to everything, from the home made bread and petits fours, to the great puddings (matched to excellent wines) and good quality vegetables. I particularly like the fact that your table is yours for the evening, so you can relax and take your time. It shows in the calm atmosphere.
I was knocked out by my starter of seared octopus, chilli, pink grapefruit and tarragon, followed by my baked wild salmon in ginger, soy and beetroot with vermicelli noodles and horseradish creme fraiche. My only moan was that while both were light, I would have liked more.
My other half picked two dishes that came in abundance. His starter of quail poached in honey, pickled beetroot, caramelised pistachios and fennel shoots was a meal in itself and so seductive. His main, roast Goosnargh duck with glazed poached pear, chorizo tapenade and duck juices worked beautifully together and the duck just melted in the mouth.
He had three ice creams with brandy snap for dessert, while I had cheese a glass of port. Both were faultless. It's quality food so expect to pay accordingly, as much as £40 a head with wine. There is however an early bird during the week which at £17.95 for three courses and a half bottle of wine each is good value.
The brothers have ambitious plans too. One of them is to open a restaurant with rooms or a boutique hotel. Watch this space....
Ratings
Name: 1885 The Restaurant
Address: The Recreation Ground, Stainland, Halifax
Phone: 01422 373030
Food 5/5
Atmosphere 4/5
Service 5/5
Value 4/5
The full article contains 569 words and appears in n/a newspaper.
-
Last Updated:
10 July 2008 3:17 PM
-
Source:
n/a
-
Location:
Halifax