WE all have an old favourite at home.

It might be a pair of slippers, an armchair or a little black dress in our wardrobe.

We sometimes like to try something new, but we always return to our old favourite. That's because we know we can always rely on it, and it makes us feel comfortable, relaxed and good about ourselves.

It is a bit the same with restaurants. When a new one opens we like to go along for a nosy and try the food, but inevitably we return to our old favourite.

Which brings me to Da Sandro in Halifax Road, Birchencliffe. In restaurant years it's old all right. Twenty-five to be exact. And it's a firm favourite. Not just of mine, but of hundreds of families throughout Calderdale and the rest of West Yorkshire who return time and time again to fill its 140 seats, every weekend and most nights of the week. Which even the most sceptical among us has to admit takes some doing.

Da Sandro has, to my min,d found the perfect recipe for success, and in doing so has helped set exacting standards for the local restaurant industry. One of the key strengths of this overcrowded ristorante is it's "buzz". As soon as you walk through the doors you are hit by its exciting, vibrant and lively atmosphere.

This is boosted by its staff (mainly Italians who are over here to learn English) who are reliable and friendly, even when under pressure.

And there are plenty of them. Fifty full and part-timers, which includes 10 chefs, who you can watch at work, popping pizzas into the wood burning oven or creating fresh and imaginative predominantly Italian dishes.

With so many staff and covers, it has to be run by military precision, but you never feel under pressure. In typical Italian fashion you can enjoy a drink and take your time over the varied menu, and there never seems any rush to vacate your table. Children, of course, are made very welcome.

It's the food and wine however that puts it in the premier league and makes it a winner. But then the Bevilacqua family who own it are experts in this field. Marino Bevilacqua set up Continental Food and Wine in Huddersfield in 1960 and has turned it into the fourth largest British winery in the UK.

The family also own one of the largest specialist food catering suppliers in the UK, Continental Quattro Stagioni, along with a food and drink cash and carry, and two restaurants and hotels. Namely Briar Court Hotel next to Da Sandro and Waterfront Lodge and Prego, in Brighouse.

Da Sandro is named after Marino's son, Sandro, and has always been his baby. He is managing director of the restaurant and still keeps his hand in, but leaves the day-to-day running to manager, Encrico Deriu who is proud of the fact the kitchen recently got five stars in the council hygiene assessment – the highest available.

The kitchen combines perfectly balanced flavours with beautiful presentation and there really is something on the menu for every taste and pocket. You can have a pasta dish or pizza with a glass of wine for around £10 a head or push the boat out with a steak, chicken or fish dish. We married the two on our last visit and had a delicious meal for two with a bottle of wine for just over £50. My other half chose a cold starter off the special board that included goat's cheese mixed with fresh fig and speck (Italian juniper flavoured prosciutto) We were so impressed we went looking for speck and figs the following day. He followed this up with a seafood pizza.

I went for seafood platter for my main course (again off the specials board) and can't recommend it highly enough. It included grilled monkfish, salmon, tuna, sea bass and king prawns cooked to perfection, and went beautifully with my favourite side salad of pink grapefruit, radicchio, celery and goat's cheese drizzled with a raspberry vinegar coulis. If you like sweet and savoury unexpectedly paired, this is one to try.

My only criticism of Da Sando is that it can be loud, and its premises won't win any prizes for interior design, but the food and ambience are ample compensation. The hardest part is getting a table.

Ratings
Name: Da Sandro

Address: Halifax Road, Birchencliffe

Phone: 01484 512845
Food 4/5
Atmosphere 5/5
Service 4/5
Value 4/5