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Review: Holdsworth House



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Published Date:
15 March 2008
FROM a restaurant critic's point of view, Holdsworth House at Holmfield, Halifax, is a nice, juicy target.
For one thing the hotel and restaurant has won lots of accolades, indeed Michelin-starred chef Paul Heathcote used to work there, making it ripe for a knockdown.

For another, people tend to think its woefully expensive. But above all, it has a bit of a reputation for being pretentious and stuffy.

Not many places in these parts can boast of attracting such names as The Beatles, REM, Rudolph Nureyev and Billy Connolly to stay under its roof.

Like the many romantic couples who seek it out from near and far for the most important day of their lives, celebrities are drawn to its because of its history and beauty. The imposing 17th century Jacobean Manor House stands in its own attractive grounds and has many original features. It is warm, cosy and intimate and is tastefully decorated in keeping with its age.

It's been owned by the same family for the last 45 years. The former Cavalier Country Club, as it was known, was run by the late Freddie and Rita Pearson who passed on the reins to their two daughters, Gail Moss and Kim Wynn, both food lovers with high standards.

They realised from day one that the food they offered would have to be as good as the surroundings, and over the years have attracted plenty of top chefs who have turned out exciting modern English and continental cuisine. Their present head chef, Garry Saunders, has been with them on-and-off for the past eight years and is rated in the trade for his technical and innovative style.

In recent years the sisters have been aware of the need to attract, shall we say, new and younger foodies to their restaurant and to this end have devised various special menus that offer the same standards, but at more down-to-earth prices.

The latest, the Sapphire menu, is to celebrate 45 years in the trade. Two people get a three course meal for £45, and during this month a bottle of wine is thrown in free. A bargain too good to miss I decided and took along my other half who hails from Leeds and has never eaten at Holdsworth House before.

His first impression was that the place was too formal and would only attract a certain clientele. I quickly pointed out the couple sat opposite us, young, newly-married professionals (I have big ears) dressed as casual as casual comes, in jeans.
It doesn't take long to make a choice from the Sapphire menu because there are only nine items on it, but the good news is it changes on a weekly basis and is on for the rest of the year. We did what I suspect most couples do. I went for two light fish dishes while his stomach started rumbling over the heavier, more filling alternatives.
His steamed black pudding boudain starter came with mustard seed mash, soft poached egg and mustard sauce and while it lacked colour and looked bland was anything but.
My salad of smoked salmon was much improved by the addition of red onion, capers and gherkins. But it was my pan-fried black fillet of bream with vine tomato risotto and roasted tomatoes and rocket which really struck home. The fish was moist and cooked to perfection and the tomato complimented it perfectly.
The other half had braised shoulder of lamb with fondant potatoes, honey and thyme-roasted vegetables and fine beans which smelled divine and offered plenty of different flavours.
Holdsworth House excels in its cheese selection so I finished with that, but thankfully my tastebuds got their sugar rush thanks to his iced raspberry parfait with blueberry and star anise compote.
The other thing Holdsworth House excels in is its service. Staff pamper your every need under the careful eye of new general manager Shane Williams. He's worked with Paul Heathcote as well as at Northcote Manor, Blackburn, and Devonshire Fell, Burnsall, North Yorkshire.
We retired to the lounge for coffee and home-made chocolates and sank back into comfortable chairs in front of the roaring fire. We could have kicked off our shoes and I don't think anyone would have minded. Next time I might, just might, wear my jeans.

Ratings:Food: ****Atmosphere: ***
Service: *****Value: ***

The full article contains 731 words and appears in Evening Courier newspaper.
Page 1 of 1

  • Last Updated: 15 March 2008 9:06 PM
  • Source: Evening Courier
  • Location: Halifax
 
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1

Peter Avinou,

Elland 16/03/2008 05:27:19
What's this a free advert?
2

Barney Rubble,

16/03/2008 08:29:29
Of all the reviews so far this has the lowest score at 3 for Atmophere and 3 for Value. It's interesting that none of the restaurants have come in for a slating by the reviewer though. Is there a reason or are we blessed with fantastic restaurants?

The only one that is severely criticised by the readers is the Inn Cognito. A truly dreadful place.
3

Tigerswife,

16/03/2008 09:34:43
Is this first & foremost seen as a public service or a nice little perk for Courier staff?
I prefer to try a place and make my own mind up rather than just dismiss a place as no good on someone else's say so.One man's meat & all that!
4

AMR,

Halifax 17/03/2008 12:50:21
Have a more than distant recollection that Dianne Crabtree knows Kim Pearson from old.....not biased then
5

blue sox,

halifax 17/03/2008 13:01:22
fantastic place nice place to chill out and have a great meal go there at least twice a month great food, great staff,hope to be there on wednesday
6

,

19/03/2008 22:57:11
Comment Reported Unsuitable By User
7

Anon220,

20/03/2008 10:29:02
that was a completely relevant comment about holdsworth house...
8

,

20/03/2008 10:47:13
Comment Reported Unsuitable By User
9

,

06/04/2008 08:38:25
Comment Removed By Administrator
Reason:
10

born to run,

13/04/2008 22:51:59
its expensive and youd be better of in one of the local pubs , non of the braying toffs too.
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