George, a Greek Cypriot, used to run the hugely popular Quiet Greek restaurant in Bradford with Tony, and Tony's step-mum Eileen for 12 years in the 80s and 90s.

When George and Eileen retired to Cyprus, Tony decided to go it alone and opened La Tavas in King Cross, Halifax. It's 12 years old and still going strong thanks mainly to cheerful service and Tony's passionate cooking. His wife, Joanna, is front of house.

Cypriots regard dining out as a sensual, leisurely experience that can stretch out for hours and eating at La Tavas reflects this. It is a bit like eating with friends in someone's home because it has a genuinely warm and friendly atmosphere. There is no rush to get you out of the door, and the food is reliable, resourceful and fresh.

The tastes of Cyprus are a unique blend of Greek, Arabic and English, heavily influenced by the Mediterranean diet, said to be one of the healthiest in the world. While Tony, who was born in this country, has been inspired by his dad's birthplace, La Tavas offers food from all corners of the Mediterranean with dishes devised by Tony and his second chef, Benji Riley.

The two change the menu twice a year (look out for new dishes from next month) and always have a specials board with plenty of interesting dishes, but Tony tells me the hot favourites always stay on the menu because if they didn't he would get lynched by regular customers.

Many of his loyal fans regard his moussaka as the best in the land, while others rave about his lamb tavas (a casserole of lamb with potatoes, vegetables and herbs) his lamb and chicken kebabs and his seabass. A relatively new addition to the menu are tapas dishes, which are proving hugely popular both for lunch and dinner.

I tried the tapas when I visited. You can choose your own selection or for £13 for six, leave the choice to Tony in the kitchen. I like surprises so went for the latter and had three when my partner, Gary, had his starter and the others for my main. They always vary.

Tony is a bit of a fish fan and his fish dishes come highly recommended. Some dishes move from sea to plate with minimal intervention. Others offer evidence of sound craft. Gary went for two fish dishes that both had the wow factor.

He started with gambas cooked in chilli, garlic, olive oil, butter and white wine, followed by trout with crayfish tails, peas and dill. The trout was his favourite.

Puddings and the wine list show flair too. There are 26 wines and Champagnes on offer ranging from the house ones at £10.50 to Champers at £35. Our two puddings are among the restaurant's most popular sweets. I had the white chocolate ice cream, scrumptious and Gary had the chocolate tart with mixed berries.

The best bit is you don't pay through the nose. La Tavas prices are renowned to be moderate for the quality. Our meal cost £61 and that included two bottles of wine.

Tony might one day join his dad in Cyprus, but for now he is happy in his King Cross kitchen letting his creative juices flow. When he does retire his two grown-up daughters, Helen and Rachel, won't be taking over. For while they are happy to help out when the restaurant gets busy, they have no interest in being chefs. One wants to be a social worker and the other works in medical science.

Ratings
Name: La Tavas

Address: 229 King Cross Road, King Cross, Hlifax HX1 3JL.

Phone: 01422 364747

Food 4/5
Atmosphere 4/5
Service 4/5
Value 5/5