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Review: Sabroso Restaurant



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Published Date: 26 April 2008
A successful pub is often down to a friendly and caring landlord.
The same could be said of a good restaurant. A front of house personality who knows his stuff and is at ease with diners is worth his weight in gold.
One such man is Chris Murgatroyd, the owner of Mytholmroyd eatery Sabroso. Chris is one of Calderdale's best-known characters, who always has an amusing tale to tell, thanks to his rich and colourful past.
He spent 15 years working with Halifax Rugby League Football Club and went on to become marketing manager at The Victoria Theatre, Halifax where he rubbed shoulders with lots of celebrities
An avid foodie and amateur cook, it was a long standing ambition of Chris's to open a restaurant. In true Chris style there is a tale behind that too.
Some years ago he and his wife, Karen, opened a steak bar under the White Swan Hotel, Halifax. But the timing wasn't great because a foot and mouth outbreak and fuel embargo a week after meant the venture was short-lived.
Not one to give up, Chris tried again and in September 2006 opened Sabroso (it means tasty in Spanish) and this time got it spot on. In less than two years, it has become one of the district's most talked about restaurants and you will very rarely find an empty table, even during the week, thanks in no small part to his £10 "early bird" menu, which is available all night Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday and until 7pm Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
It was my first visit to Sabroso and I have to say I like the place. It is cool, laid back and very Med like the food it serves. A lot of thought has been put into the menu – which changes every two months – although favourites like giant king prawns, steak-frites and moules-frites (when in season) are always there.
There was so much that appealed, such as risotto of fresh crab, peas and mint; slow roasted belly pork on bubble and squeak with caramelised apple, black pudding and an apple and calvados sauce; pan fried salmon on a warm salad of saute potatoes, artichoke and rocket with a caper and dill dressing.
My other half chose a starter of warm salad of boudin noir (French black pudding), pan-fried pigeon breast and crispy pancetta with a balsamic dressing, which is a bit risque and fancy but worked. I went for a favourite that I often cook for dinner parties – pear, walnut and gorgonzola salad with blue cheese dressing. It was a little dry and I actually preferred my version, with an olive oil dressing and fresh chillies.
But my main more than made up for it. I could not decide between the giant king prawns and the mussels so I had a bit of both. The prawns were just as I like them in their shells and pan-fried in garlic and herb butter. Messy to eat, but yummy. The mussels in a sauce of white wine, shallots, garlic, parsley and cream were scrumptious with chips, aioli and fresh bread.
My partner's roast rump of lamb with olive oil mash, baby carrots and red wine and rosemary jus, was cooked to perfection and meltingly sweet and soft.
But it was his dessert he raved about. He loved the vanilla ice cream wrapped in mincemeat and filo pastry, deep fried and served with a honey drizzle. The hot and cold worked well together. I went for a lighter option, a white chocolate pannacotta with mango and mint salsa, a match made in heaven.
Head chef Justin Rebel certainly knows his stuff. He has worked in London, at Harvey Nichols and Rascasse in Leeds. And locally at La Cachette, Elland, The Maypole, Warley, and the former Casa Mia in Sowerby Bridge.
Sabroso serves fab food, with a short but well chosen and well priced wine list. Prices range from £10 for a Chilean cabernet sauvignon to £29.50 for a French Sarget de Gruaud Larose.
Overall it was an entertaining night and one I will certainly be repeating, if only to hear more of Chris's funny tales.

RATINGS
Name:
Sabroso
Address: 15 Burnley Road, Mytholmroyd, Hebden Bridge
Phone: 01422 886555
Food: 4 stars
Atmosphere: 4 stars
Service: 4 stars
Value: 4 stars

The full article contains 725 words and appears in n/a newspaper.
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  • Last Updated: 26 April 2008 10:07 AM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Halifax
 
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Doris Walker,

28/04/2008 13:36:00
Is it possible to "cook" Ms Crabtree's favourite Pear, walnut and gorgonzola salad with blue cheese dressing ?
Perhaps that was why it didn't compare with her own version.
We tried Sabroso a couple of times shortly after it oppened.The last time i had the Steak & Frites, the steak i'd ordered rare, when the steak arrived it had a stewed like texture to it. When the manager asked if i'd enjoyed it, i told him this, in return he told me after grilling it had been resting in the oven for a minute or so, i said that explained it then.. he'd mentioned he'd learnt this little tip from his experience gaining spell at a well known Restaurant/Hotel in Holmfield .
Two to avoid for me..
2

exile,

28/04/2008 15:31:54
Yuk!!
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