It is, of course, not my business to concern myself with this question.
I should have more important issues afoot as I relax in the cosy dining room of the Shibden Mill Inn.

My concern – as a restaurant critic trying to prove he's worth his salt (and pepper fishcake) – should be how tasty the food is. Or if the service is attentive. Or what's on the wine list. Wine, obviously, but Giles Coren would almost certainly demand more detail than that.

Yet, tonight in this homely inn – a 17th-century coaching house restored to retain its original feature – one can't help but be distracted by the pub quiz.

One can never help but be distracted by a good pub quiz.

There's a metaphor for a decent menu there. You shouldn't be able to look at it without itching to take part.

The Shibden Mill Inn has one such menu.

You see it, you want to eat – even when your mind's racking itself trying to remember who wrote the Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde (Robert Louis Stevenson, fact fans).

Mushrooms aren't renowned for being great brain food but we can't resist the open ravioli of wild mushroom with watercress sauce for starters.

Infused with garlic, it's a delicate slip of a dish, a skinny starter that's fat with Italian charm. A board of bread compliments it nicely.

And, while we won't be winning any prizes for our quiz efforts, it's easy to see why the place has won praise in a raft of national newspapers and been named Les Routiers Northeast England Restaurant of the Year in 2003.

Undoubtedly the place's atmosphere and location – based on a brook in what feels like the middle of nowhere – help but there's no doubt dinner confirms the excellent reputation.

At nearly £15 the braised shank of Yorkshire lamb served with roast garlic mash and rosmary jus needs to impress – and it does.

The meat crumbles off the bone on to a pile of mash whipped like soft ice cream and in to a slim puddle of thick gravy.

The presentation – a bone of meat thrown on top of a pile of creamed potatoes – might leave something to be desired but somehow the apparent lack of pretension fits in with the homely atmosphere.

My guest chose the red wine braised daube of beef with roasted root vegetables and truffled mash. While the beef bordered on chewy, the red wine braising sparkles on the taste buds bringing out the sweetness of the earthy vegetables.

For desert we share a dark chocolate and Cointreau mousse. It's like eating large spoonfuls of chocolate oxygen it's so light.

Which leaves us completely content.

Except for not knowing what symbolises virginity.

Turns out it was a unicorn. Wonder what they'd taste like braised.

Details
Name: The Shibden Mill Inn
Address: Shibden Mill Fold, Halifax
Telephone: 01422 365840