They used to joke about soup in a basket.

But culture has changed and instead of a snack with a pint or two, food for many people is now more important. In fact, pubs now compete on the same level as dedicated restaurants.

With competition at every street corner and pressure on the licensed trade to even make ends meet, publicans have to be on their mettle to grab their share of this market.

And to do that they need to embrace modern food culture, which means sourcing their food locally and buying it fresh where possible.

It was five years ago this year that Steve Hargreaves and his partner Carol Dickinson took the reins at the imposing former Bass pub, the Clough House Inn, on the border of Rastrick and Fixby.

The change they have effected is a credit to them and their staff.

You don't have to book a meal at the weekend. As Mr Hargreaves says, they will always try to fit people in. But those who want to make sure put in a phone call just for peace of mind.

We dropped in for a bite to eat one lunchtime. The pub is within striking distance of home but while calling in on occasions for a drink my wife and I hadn't eaten there for some time.

It came well recommended though. Family members and friends swear by the place and the numbers of vehicles piled into the car park at weekends and a tea-time shouts out loud and clear that this is a very popular spot.

There were plenty of covers when we visited, even though lunchtime service was nearing an end.

We had just returned from a short break in Cornwall where we had dined almost exclusively on fish, so with the smell of the Atlantic still in my nostrils I went for the haddock in beer batter with mushy peas and normal chips.

I say normal because in Cornwall I'd been served French-style slivers at Rick Stein's Cafe and at the Bay Hotel in Newquay, our base for the break, I'd had them served chunky, the other end of the potato spectrum.

You could choose two sizes of haddock. The smaller portion was perfect. The fish was as fresh as it could be, the batter extremely crispy and the peas, well ... mushy.

My wife ordered lasagne. It was a good portion well cooked and extremely tasty unlike some of the offerings we have had over the years. It came with garlic bread and a fabulously crisp mixed salad, which was bursting with colour and perfectly dressed.

At the next table a couple of girls wrestled with a delicious-looking chocolate fudge topped with ice cream breaking off only momentarily to continue their conversation.

It looked great, but it was lunch and we'd had far too much to eat over the previous few days, so we called it a draw. The price was less than £20 and that was with a drink or two.

"We made a decision a couple of years ago to do things a little differently and the majority of our food is locally sourced," says Mr Hargreaves. "We needed to change because there is a lot of competition out there."

The ploy appears to have worked. The Clough House Inn is a pleasant venue and I have to say the staff were extremely accommodating. The menu is extensive and there is a good choice of beer with Bass and Theakston ever present plus a guest beer. We will not leave it as long to visit again.

Details
Name: The Clough House Inn
Address: 129, Clough Lane, Brighouse
Telephone: 01484 512120

Courier reviews conducted without the prior knowledge of the restaurant