Most people want to go pubs that serve good food theses days.

But forget the outdated pie and peas image. Licensees are turning into proper little restaurateurs, demanding their food be taken seriously and not just as an adjunct to a decent pint.

John Whitham is one such licensee. He's been in the pub trade for the last 16 years and has a reputation for serving good home cooked food at down-to-earth prices. Which is, let's face it, what Yorkshire folk want when they eat out at food-pubs these days.

John started off at a traditional boozer, the Siddal Place, Halifax, before moving to Maggie's in the town centre six years later. It was at Maggie's, which he still owns, that he first got a taste for fine food.
It's a popular eating spot for town centre workers.

This took him on to his first restaurant, 1204 in Sowerby Bridge which he opened with a business partner in 2005. He sold his share after 18 months and took some time out, before a new challenge beckoned.

Eight months ago he took over the Stump Cross Inn which had shut and badly needed a visionary at its helm. John felt it needed a complete new look and in March closed it for five weeks for a £250,000 refurbishment. Some of the money was spend on knocking down walls and replacing them with glass doors which lead out on to a stylish outdoor terraced area. It has opened up the building and given it a bright, light new feel.

John knew the pub needed to offer serious food and has turned it into a bar and 72-seat restaurant, but diners have the edge. It is already packed to capacity most lunch-times and evenings thanks to a lively, interesting menu put together by John and his two experienced chefs.

The restaurant offers a carvery every lunchtime and Saturday evening which John says customers come from all over Calderdale and beyond for. Sundays are manic and you have to book in advance to get a table Friday, Saturday or Sundays. In fact it's advisable to book whenever you intend going.

The menu offers home cooked food with a twist and ingredients are sourced locally were possible.

The pies, according to John, are a huge hit, along with slow roasted lamb shank with creamy mashed potato and a fruity mint and redcurrant gravy; homemade lasagne and chilli, and the sizzlers. You can choose from sweet and sour pork loin; rump steak in a spicy sauce with mixed peppers and onions, or cajun chicken fillet with onion rings and mushrooms. The mixed grill is also recommended along with the beer battered haddock and the swordfish with a rich lemon thyme cream sauce.

We tried the smoked salmon parcels and the homemade soup when we visited, followed by the steak pie and the ploughmans. As a cheese lover I am a sucker for a good ploughmans and this one didn't disappoint. The ham was thick and succulent, there was a good selection of cheese and the pickles hit the spot. I had some chunky homemade chips on the side, and these were just as I like them – thick with browned crispy skins.

The puddings selection isn't huge and there is scope for development in this section, but it is still worth a look at. The apple crumble and jam roly poly are made on the premises and tasty, and there is your usual cheesecake, treacle sponge and sticky toffee pudding for those with a sweet tooth.

Service takes it's cue from John and is faultless and the wine list is decent too. Take your pick from 18 bottles with some bottles under £10. A couple can have three courses with a bottle of wine with change from £40.

Decent pubs are thin on the ground and those with restaurants even thinner so the Stump Cross is a welcome newcomer.

Ratings
Name: The Stump Cross Inn

Address: Godley Lane, Halifax

Phone: 01422 321066

Food 4/5
Atmosphere 4/5
Service 4/5
Value 5/5