That is why the menu at the Wyke Lion pub on the busy Bradford Road, Leeds Whitehall Road crossroads at Wyke does not disappoint.

Even before ordering there's a sense of being nourished thanks to the cosy surroundings which include roaring log fires.

The pub has not chosen the road that a lot of pubs today do – that is making the menu too fancy for those of us who are traditionalists at heart and still enjoy our comfort food.

It has its Mediterranean touches, yes – such as its piri piri chicken in a fiery red chilli and tomato sauce, its mezze sharing plate for two and Provencal chicken .

But if it is a good old-fashioned steak and ale pie you're after, served with creamy mash and seasonal vegetables or a braised lamb shank, tenderly cooked so it is dropping off the bone, you'll find it here.

Three of us ate and between us chose beer-battered fish and chips, served with peas, an open chicken pie and a forestiere chicken.

The fish was white, succulent and cooked nicely in a very light, crisp batter. The chips were nicely seasoned and over all it was a big hit. It might seem a simple dish to cook but it's surprising how many places can muck it up. The Wyke Lion did not.

The open chicken pie consists of succulent chicken breasts, ham and leeks cooked with a smoked applewood cheddar cheese sauce and has a lovely flaky pastry lid – but only around the edges (hence its name.)
This means that it's perfect for those who might find too much pastry over-facing.

The combination of flavours – chicken, cheese, leeks – was lovely and really this is a dish in itself. You almost don't need the chips. Almost.

Our third dish was forestiere chicken – two generous fillets cooked in a cream sauce of forest and button mushrooms with garlic, white wine and fresh thyme.

The sauce was rich with lovely woodland mushroom flavours – although if I am being picky I would have liked just a little more, as well as a stronger hint of thyme.

We had a side order of cheesy garlic bread. Big mistake. It was very more-ish but also filling and the result was that none of us could manage a pudding.

Which is almost a sin here since the selection includes favourites that your granny would have made – sticky toffee and date pudding, Eves pudding, apple and plum crumble, tipsy bread and butter pudding.

So I have learned a lesson and next time I'll go for a lighter main if only to save space for one of these schooldays specials, profiteroles or even the cheese platter with Somerset brie, Cropwell Bishop stilton and Dorset mature cheddar served with pink lady apple chutney, celery and classic Bath Oliver biscuits.

The bill for the three of us – three mains, a side order and three soft drinks – came to £28.20, which in these credit crunch days is not going to break the bank.

Details
Name: The Wyke Lion
Address: Leeds Whitehall Road, Wyke
Telephone: 01422 674756

• Courier reviews are conducted without the prior knowledge of the restaurant