Chefs who have won coveted Michelin stars are as rare as truffles.
But one of them, Nick Wilson has recently been appointed head chef at Moyles hotel and restaurant, and his mission is to take its food to new heights, transforming the restaurant into one of Yorkshire's finest.

And, as one might imagine from a man tutored by no less a chef than TV celebrity Jean-Christophe Novelli, the father-of-two's arrival has signalled a number of significant changes including an overhaul of the menu.

In come several signature dishes, including gazpacho terrine, sauteed lamb cutlets – a recipe passed down by Nick's grandma – and an apple-themed trio of mini apple tart tatin, Granny Smith crème brûlée and organic cider sorbet.

Out go complicated dish descriptions in favour of plain detail.

"They were the first shortfalls I saw when I came here and we have put them right."

As well as a la carte there is now a bar menu, afternoon tea and an early bird menu too.

"It is a more down-to-earth menu with a greater emphasis on the produce. We don't want to overfuss the food but let it speak for itself. People get embarrassed if they don't understand what they are ordering. Instead this is simplicity but perfectly executed."

Nick, 35, began his career in 1990 at Scotland's famous golfing hotel Gleneagles before transferring to the Sharrow Bay Hotel in Lake District, another top-class establishent.

From there he joined the team at London's iconic Four Seasons Hotel in 1993, which had one Michelin star and five AA Rosettes.

It was there Nick, who is originally from Worksop, met the notorious Novelli, star of ITV1's Hell's Kitchen, who took up the role of head chef.

They worked together for seven years as Novelli took his protege with him as his sous chef when he opened Maison Novelli in Farringdon, London, in 1996. Later Nick took control at Novelli W8 in Notting Hill and was then head chef at Les Saveurs. Both Maison Novelli and Les Saveurs received a Michelin star while Novelli W8 was given the Red M Michelin rating, which is just short of a star.

"Jean-Christophe was firm but fair. He definitely had his moments. Of the seven years I worked with him the first three were horrible but the last four were great. The training was a lot like being in the Army," he said.

"I owe a lot to him. When I worked for him he was cooking the most fascinating food in London. He was 10 years ahead of his time."

After leaving his mentor behind in around 2000, Nick worked as a chef consultant for catering and events management company Rhubarb. The firm had many blue chip clients including Coutts Bank and Nick also catered for prestigious Porsche parties and even provided food for one of Elton John's White Tie and Tiara Balls.

He later came back to Yorkshire as head chef at the award-winning and Michelin-rated organic restaurant the Walnut Club in Hathersage, near Sheffield.

"It was the guy at the Walnut Club who set up that ethos but it did actually rub off on me quite a bit."

Mr Wilson, who took up his role at Moyles around six weeks ago and is commuting between Hebden Bridge and his home in Cambridge, is now looking for local organic suppliers, but says using the best produce is most important to him.

"Some organic produce is better and some is not. It is about getting the balance right."

He is joined at Moyles by 21-year-old Graham Mitchell, who came from Lincolnshire's Wintering-ham Fields which was voted northern restaurant and bar best restaurant 2007.

The question now, of course is, will Hebden Bridge soon be in line for its first Michelin star?

"We are not going to run before we can walk," says Nick, tactfully.
But Nick admitted that AA and Michelin involvement were possibilities in the future.

Owner Simon Moyle agrees: "With Nick's appointment we are aiming to create a reputation as an eating venue of quality and distinction that can compete on a regional and national level."