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What makes a good coffee? Virginia Mason goes in search of the perfect cup



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Published Date: 05 September 2008
EVEN before you step through the doors of Cooper's, the nature of their business is perfectly obvious.
That's because the rich aroma of freshly-ground coffee permeates the air, wafting through the car park to lure visitors inside.

It's almost hallucinogenic and I climb the stairs in a state of trance to find barista Danielle Hadley in full swing, teaching the expert art of preparing the perfect coffee.

Barista is an Italian term loosely translated into English as one who has acquired some level of expertise in this field. And Danielle ranks among the best – she has twice proved her worth in the national barista championships.

Today the impressive-looking, hi-tech coffee machine is bubbling. And so is Danielle's passion.

"I have always loved coffee and I just decided I wanted to learn all I could about it," she says while fixing me a perfect Americano, lush, dark and rich with two shots of espresso.

She is originally from Shropshire and decided to follow a career in hospitality. For several years she worked for seafood and fish culinary guru Rick Stein at each of his various eateries in Padstow, Cornwall.

"I learned about food and wine but it was coffee that intrigued me the most, the art of making it. Being a good barista involves both art and science and that's what I love."

Danielle now works at Cooper's Coffee, at Cooper Bridge, near Brighouse.
The business was set up by an enterprising David Cooper back in 1989 and is now one the UK's leading suppliers of coffee equipment – as well as award-winning coffee, blended to David's unique and delicious recipes.

"I basically started off blending my own coffees in the back bedroom of my flat and it just took off. In my first month I had 20 odd customers and they just continued to grow.

"It was good to know that there were people out there as passionate about good coffee as me," says David who has years of experience in the food business.

"I was just 17 when I started working as a chef in Italian restaurants and of course I was drinking espressos. That's how my passion developed. You have to hand it to the Italians, they have really mastered the art of coffee-making. It's in their blood."

David admits he loves the thrill of writing his own recipes after sourcing the coffee beans from all parts of the world.

"There are 30 odd countries with origin coffees and of course they can vary just as wine does. From one year to the next there can be differences, due to changing weather conditions and so on.

"I always think there's room for improvement though. I am always striving for the best with a blend. I enjoy the tweaking."

One of Cooper's most popular coffees is David's Louie Mio blend. It's named in honour of his son and the translated meaning is my Louie.

He now supplies to the trade with many business and restaurants asking him to create their own individual and unique blends – just as a French "nose" would create a unique fragrance. I notice that there are bags of beans bearing the label Yorkshire Sculpture Park blend.

"Lots of businesses are great because they put the Cooper's signs up too, so we do get the credit.

"At the end of the day though, all you can do is supply the coffee beans and then hope that it will be made into the perfect coffee – and you'll only get that with trained baristas," he says.

That's why Cooper's barista training has become so popular with local restaurants and pubs whose staff can learn Danielle's watchful eye.
As she teaches today she is talking expertly about water temperatures and the art of getting the grind exactly right.

"If it's too coarse the water will pass through too quickly and you'll get no flavour – that's under-extraction," she says.

"Too fine and it will dribble through, again spoiling the taste. The perfect extraction means the water will run through resembling a mouse's tail," she says, demonstrating.

She talks of finding the coffee's sweet spot, the type of bean and its oil content, the depth of roast, even the temperature and type of milk for a perfect latte or cappuccino.

David too talks of the quest for finding that perfect cup – and a world where everyone would be served their favourite coffee.

"Imagine walking into a cafe and being able to have that bespoke coffee, where they ask you what type of coffee you like. Kenyan, Costa Rican, Java? What kind of roast, light, medium, dark, whether you like a robust coffee or a fruity one? And not only that but each time you ordered that coffee it would be consistently good. Now wouldn't that be great?"

It has to be said, that after Danielle's Americano, there is no going back to instant.

The full article contains 831 words and appears in n/a newspaper.
Page 1 of 1

  • Last Updated: 05 September 2008 12:15 PM
  • Source: n/a
  • Location: Halifax
 
 

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