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Review: Old Bridge Inn
IT came to my notice recently that there is a new trendy illness around called orthorexia nervosa.
While I like to see myself as a trend setter, there is not a cat in hell's chance of me getting this condition, because it's an obsession with healthy eating. And as anyone who knows me well will tell you, food is right up there with wine when it comes to my pleasure zones.
I spent my weekend eating and drinking at two birthday bashes, but still found room on Tuesday night for three, yes three, courses at one of my favourite watering holes, the Old Bridge Inn in Ripponden.
The pub which is believed to be the oldest in Yorkshire (records show it dates back to 1307) has been in Lindsay Eaton Walker's family since 1963. Her late grandma, Daisy Beaumont and her uncle Ian Beaumont, one of Ripponden's most colourful characters, ran the pub till 2001 when Lindsay took it over with her husband, Tim.
It's still very much a traditional pub that sticks to a tried and tested formula. No music or gaming machines, just interesting ales from independent brewers, a real fire, antique furniture, and a good old Yorkshire welcome.
That welcome includes food. Home cooked seasonal stuff which is locally sourced where possible, and cooked by Lindsay and 23-year-old Yvonne Lumb.
The pub has always had a reputation for good food since Ian's days, and still has today thanks in no small part to its lunch-time carvery (which was started in 1963), its evening blackboard menu (usually seven starters and sweets and eight mains which change on a regular basis) and its annual pork pie contest which attracts interest from all over the country.
While home made pies and retro puddings like ginger sponge, sticky toffee and bread and butter, are always on the evening menu, there are lots of new, more contemporary dishes on offer thanks to Yvonne, who trained in London and spent three months working alongside celebrity chef, Gary Rhodes – and she is still in contact with home.
They include soy and Chilli duck breast with pak-choi and Anna potatoes; sea bass fillet on crushed wild garlic potatoes, spinach and sun blessed tomatoes and king scallops with chorizo and celeriac ruree.
My son stuck with traditional meat and potato pie with mushy peas (lots of meat and the shortcrust pastry was worthy of a mention he told me) while I went on the recommendations of friends. A well known barrister will tell anyone who cares to listen that the crispy chilli beef salad with sesame oil can not be faulted, while another regular assured me the strawberry and raspberry fool with toasted oats was to die for. And they are right.
The oats are baked in the oven like a huge biscuit with flour, sugar and butter and topped with a layer of pureed strawberries and raspberries and a whipped cream, sugar and custard mix. A heavenly fool if I do say so.
It just about beats the salad starter. Strips of beef are coated in flour seasoned with different spices and chilli oil before being deep fried. They sit on a bed of leaves which are drizzled with tabasco. You need courage to eat this because it really packs a punch. I had risotto for mains. This came with crab, broad beans, tomato and tarragon. I firmly believe you can tell a good risotto by the first mouthful. If all you can taste is the rice, forget it. Luckily the first thing that hit my tastebuds was the crab. Not overwhelming just immaculately composed.
The bill with one glass of wine and numerous cokes, came to 34. Before you go thinking I am Mrs Greedy, you need to know one thing. I had a starter size risotto. So maybe, just maybe, I've got a touch of orthorexia nervosa after all!
Details
Name: Old Bridge Inn
Address: Priest Lane
Ripponden
Telephone: 01422 822595
Courier reviews conducted without the prior knowledge of the restaurant
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Friday 10 February 2012
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