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Review: The Rams Head Inn
CALDERDALE has some of the finest restaurants in Yorkshire. Of that there is no doubt.
But ever so often it's nice to get in your car and drive somewhere different. Which brings me to the remote Rams Head Inn in Denshaw.
Before any smart alec points out it's not in God's county, I'll fill you in.
Yes, it might be in Lancashire, but it's owned by a true Yorkshire man, Geoff Haigh, a former meat wholesaler, who at one time owned the Estetica Beauty Clinic in Elland.
Geoff took over the 450-year-old pub 30 years ago when it used to sell ale from jugs and in that time has developed it into an award-winning restaurant.
It's regarded by many as a bastion of traditional British food and its regular customers travel from far and wide, not just to enjoy its imaginative food but also to get a healthy breath of moorland air, marvel at its views and soak in its romantic atmosphere.
I visited one Saturday night and was surprised to find other local foodies on the same wavelength. There was a party in from Krumlin, a couple I knew from Elland and a group from Sowerby Bridge. Geoff runs it with his partner, Heather Taylor, and the two source as much as possible locally.
They hang all their own meat and make their own pork pies and sausages. Two years ago they opened The Pantry, a deli on the side of the pub, which sells a lot of what you see on the menu.
It stays open late so you can pop in and buy food and drink in between courses, which is somewhat novel.
The seasonal blackboard menu offers meat, fish and game and gets changed on a regular basis (obviously firm favourites stay). The sticky toffee pudding, Heather's own recipe, has been on the menu for 15 years and she would get lynched if she ever removed it.
I have to say it is a bit of a squash reading the blackboard, which is located in the bar area, and the service while unobtrusive, can be slow, but the food more than makes up for it.
My friend had goat's cheese, apple and celery salad dressed with ginger syrup, which I am definitely going to try at home. The flavours and textures complimented one another perfectly.
My starter of Fleetwood crab with mayonnaise on the side was delightful. There was plenty of it and so fresh it could have been caught that day.
I followed it with a duo of Allerton Estate pheasant and mallard duck with parsnip puree and juniper and red wine sauce. The sauce was amazing, the wild duck came just as it should be served – rare – and the pheasant was spot on.
And while the other main course of sea bass with saffron rice and Thai green curry sauce looked a bit offputting it tasted divine.
I think its fair to say the chef at The Rams Head is brave, daring and doesn't assume a recipe is chiselled in stone. He obviously has fun with food and makes eating it a pleasure.
Our bill, with a bottle of wine and coffees, came to just over 60, and yes, before you ask, I will be venturing out of God's county to eat again.
Details
Name: The Rams Head Inn
Address: Ripponden Road, Denshaw, Oldham, OL3 5UN
Telephone: 01457 874802
Courier reviews conducted without the prior knowledge of the restaurant
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Saturday 11 February 2012
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